Thank you for not asking me to share any pattern with you...
Tuesday, October 01, 2013
The Chunk Knit
This is from Miss Twiss. I would love to make one someday when I find the right yarn....

Yarn Weight: Chunky Yarn
For the sample, I'm using Cascade Yarns, Eco+ 100% Peruvian Highland Wool, colour # 0958
Two skeins were purchased for this project and have quite a lot left over, but not enough for sleeves.
Needles Size: Size 6mm Circular needles
Gauge: eeek!
Yoke length (circumference)= 118cm or 46 1/2"
Neckline depth to yoke measures 8cm or 3"
Armhole measures 19cm or 11 1/2"
Centre Front placket length= 54cm or 21 1/4"
Centre Back length= 55cm or 21 1/2"
Abbreviations
K= Knit
P= Purl
K2Tog= K two together
C6B = Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 3 sts from left hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle.
C6F = Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 3 sts from left hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle.
C1B-K3 = Slip next stitch onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 3 sts on left needle. Purl stitch from cable needle.
C3F-P1 = Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work; purl next stitch on left needle. Knit sts from cable needle.
C1F-P3 = Slip next stitch onto cable needle and hold at front of work; purl next 3 sts on left needle. Knit stitch from cable needle.
C3B-K1 = Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work; KNIT next stitch on left needle. PURL stitches from cable needle.
C2F= Slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work.
C3B= Slip 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work.
NB: This pattern is for an asymmetric cardigan, just like the photo I ripped out from the British Vogue.
The First Chunk, The Yoke [The repeat for cable pattern is Rows 2-21.]
CO 22 sts. Row 1 P5, K12, P5.
Row 2 Slip 1. K4, P12, K5.
Row 3 Slip 1. P4, C6B, C6B, P5.
Row 4 Slip 1. K4, P12, K5.
Row 5 Slip 1. P4, K12, P5.
Row 6 Slip 1. K4, P12, K5.
Row 7 Slip 1. P3, C1B-K3, C6F, C3F-P1, P4.
Row 8 Slip 1. K2, C1F-P3, K1, P6, K1, C3B-K1, K3.
Row 9 Slip 1. P1, C1B-K3, P2, K6, P2, C3F-P1, P2.
Row 10 Slip 1. K1, P3, K3, P6, K3, P3, K2.
Row 11 Slip 1. P1, K3, P3, K6, P3, K3, P2.
Row 12 Slip 1. K1, P3, K3, P6, K3, P3, K2.
Row 13 Slip 1. P1, K3, P3, C6F, P3, K3, P2.
Row 14 Slip 1. K1, P3, K3, P6, K3, P3, K2.
Row 15 Slip 1. P1, K3, P3, K6, P3, K3, P2.
Row 16 Slip 1. K1, P3, K3, P6, K3, P3, K2.
Row 17 Slip 1. P1, C3F-P1, P2, K6, P2, C1B-K3, P2.
Row 18 Slip 1. K2, C3B-K1, K1, P6, K1, C1F-P3, K3.
Row 19 Slip 1. P3, C3F-P1, C6F, C1B-K3, P4.
Row 20 Slip 1. K4, P12, K5.
Row 21 Slip 1. P4, K12, P5.
Repeat pattern for 12 times.
Do not cut yarn.
The Neckline
With live yarn and wrong side facing pick up 124 stitches along the length of the yoke.
Row 1: (RS) Knit this row.
Row 2: Slip the first stitch, stitch Purl to end.
Row 3: (WS) Slip 1, k2. k1, k2tog, repeat to last 3 stitches, knit to end. (decreasing row to 85 sts).
Row 4 and 6: (RS) Continue in reverse stockinette.
Row 5: (WS) Knit to end.
Row 7: (WS) Slip 1, k2. k1, k2tog, repeat to last 3 stitches, knit to end. (decreasing row to 59 sts).
Row 8: (RS) Continue in reverse stockinette.
Row 9: (WS) Slip 1, k2. k1, k2tog, repeat to last 3 stitches, knit to end. (decreasing row to 42sts).
Row 10: (RS) Knit this row.
Row 11: (WS) Bind off.
The Second Chunk, The Body
With a new yarn and wrong side facing pick up 124 stitches along the bottom length of the yoke.
Row 1: (RS) Knit through the back loop of 18 stitches, transfer 25 stitches to stitch holder (for right armhole), knit through back loop of 30 stitches, transfer 25 stitches to stitch holder (for left armhole), knit through the back loop of the next 26 stitches to end.
Row 2: (WS) Knit front and back of each stitch, increasing row to 124 stitches.
The Cables
Cable A
Row 1: Purl 1, Knit 6, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: Purl 1, C2F, K2, K2, P1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 4: Knit
Row 5: Purl 1, K6, P1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 6: Knit
Row 7: Purl 1, K2, C2F, K2, P1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 8: Knit
Cable B
Row 1: Purl 1, Knit 9, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: Purl 1, K9, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 4: Knit
Row 5: Purl 1, K3, C3B, K3, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 6: Knit
Row 7: Purl 1, K9, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 8: Knit
Row 9: Purl 1, C3B, K6, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 6: Knit
Row 7: Purl 1, K9, P1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 8: Knit
Slipping the first stitch of each row, set up your cables using the following formula:
A, B, B, A,
B, A, B, A, B, A,
A, A, B, A.
During the knitting of the cables, increase every 10 rows by stitching the front and back of each stitch before and after slipping the knit stitch in Cables A and B.
(note: do not increase at the slipped stitch closest to the opening of the cardigan, as this area needs to be straight and any flare would cause the sweater to lay wonky on your body and nobody needs that!)
Knit to 8 complete increases.
Bind off.

Placket
Along the edge of the opening, pick up stitches from one extreme edge to the other and knit stockinette through the back loop of each stitch, Purl the next row and then bind off. Do the same for the other side.
Apply snaps, or domes, at key intersections:
Knit stockinette through the back loop of each stitch from the stitch holder, Purl the next row and then bind off for the last row. Do the same for the other armhole.
Weave in all your stray yarns. Take a photo and log it on your blog or your Ravelry profile!
This is a work in progress. I am not a knitwear pattern maker. When there are problems, please let me know. I'll do my best to correct this pattern with your help.

Yarn Weight: Chunky Yarn
For the sample, I'm using Cascade Yarns, Eco+ 100% Peruvian Highland Wool, colour # 0958
Two skeins were purchased for this project and have quite a lot left over, but not enough for sleeves.
Needles Size: Size 6mm Circular needles
Gauge: eeek!
(as requested) Finished Measurements of the Sample:
Yoke width (from top to bottom)= 11cm or 4 1/4"Yoke length (circumference)= 118cm or 46 1/2"
Neckline depth to yoke measures 8cm or 3"
Armhole measures 19cm or 11 1/2"
Centre Front placket length= 54cm or 21 1/4"
Centre Back length= 55cm or 21 1/2"
Abbreviations
K= Knit
P= Purl
K2Tog= K two together
C6B = Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 3 sts from left hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle.
C6F = Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 3 sts from left hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle.
C1B-K3 = Slip next stitch onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 3 sts on left needle. Purl stitch from cable needle.
C3F-P1 = Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work; purl next stitch on left needle. Knit sts from cable needle.
C1F-P3 = Slip next stitch onto cable needle and hold at front of work; purl next 3 sts on left needle. Knit stitch from cable needle.
C3B-K1 = Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work; KNIT next stitch on left needle. PURL stitches from cable needle.
C2F= Slip 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work.
C3B= Slip 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work.
NB: This pattern is for an asymmetric cardigan, just like the photo I ripped out from the British Vogue.
The First Chunk, The Yoke [The repeat for cable pattern is Rows 2-21.]
CO 22 sts. Row 1 P5, K12, P5.
Row 2 Slip 1. K4, P12, K5.
Row 3 Slip 1. P4, C6B, C6B, P5.
Row 4 Slip 1. K4, P12, K5.
Row 5 Slip 1. P4, K12, P5.
Row 6 Slip 1. K4, P12, K5.
Row 7 Slip 1. P3, C1B-K3, C6F, C3F-P1, P4.
Row 8 Slip 1. K2, C1F-P3, K1, P6, K1, C3B-K1, K3.
Row 9 Slip 1. P1, C1B-K3, P2, K6, P2, C3F-P1, P2.
Row 10 Slip 1. K1, P3, K3, P6, K3, P3, K2.
Row 11 Slip 1. P1, K3, P3, K6, P3, K3, P2.
Row 12 Slip 1. K1, P3, K3, P6, K3, P3, K2.
Row 13 Slip 1. P1, K3, P3, C6F, P3, K3, P2.
Row 14 Slip 1. K1, P3, K3, P6, K3, P3, K2.
Row 15 Slip 1. P1, K3, P3, K6, P3, K3, P2.
Row 16 Slip 1. K1, P3, K3, P6, K3, P3, K2.
Row 17 Slip 1. P1, C3F-P1, P2, K6, P2, C1B-K3, P2.
Row 18 Slip 1. K2, C3B-K1, K1, P6, K1, C1F-P3, K3.
Row 19 Slip 1. P3, C3F-P1, C6F, C1B-K3, P4.
Row 20 Slip 1. K4, P12, K5.
Row 21 Slip 1. P4, K12, P5.
Repeat pattern for 12 times.
Do not cut yarn.
The Neckline
With live yarn and wrong side facing pick up 124 stitches along the length of the yoke.
Row 1: (RS) Knit this row.
Row 2: Slip the first stitch, stitch Purl to end.
Row 3: (WS) Slip 1, k2. k1, k2tog, repeat to last 3 stitches, knit to end. (decreasing row to 85 sts).
Row 4 and 6: (RS) Continue in reverse stockinette.
Row 5: (WS) Knit to end.
Row 7: (WS) Slip 1, k2. k1, k2tog, repeat to last 3 stitches, knit to end. (decreasing row to 59 sts).
Row 8: (RS) Continue in reverse stockinette.
Row 9: (WS) Slip 1, k2. k1, k2tog, repeat to last 3 stitches, knit to end. (decreasing row to 42sts).
Row 10: (RS) Knit this row.
Row 11: (WS) Bind off.
The Second Chunk, The Body
With a new yarn and wrong side facing pick up 124 stitches along the bottom length of the yoke.
Row 1: (RS) Knit through the back loop of 18 stitches, transfer 25 stitches to stitch holder (for right armhole), knit through back loop of 30 stitches, transfer 25 stitches to stitch holder (for left armhole), knit through the back loop of the next 26 stitches to end.
Row 2: (WS) Knit front and back of each stitch, increasing row to 124 stitches.
The Cables
Cable A
Row 1: Purl 1, Knit 6, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: Purl 1, C2F, K2, K2, P1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 4: Knit
Row 5: Purl 1, K6, P1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 6: Knit
Row 7: Purl 1, K2, C2F, K2, P1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 8: Knit
Cable B
Row 1: Purl 1, Knit 9, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 2: Knit
Row 3: Purl 1, K9, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 4: Knit
Row 5: Purl 1, K3, C3B, K3, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 6: Knit
Row 7: Purl 1, K9, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 8: Knit
Row 9: Purl 1, C3B, K6, Purl 1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 6: Knit
Row 7: Purl 1, K9, P1, Slip 1 Knitwise
Row 8: Knit
Slipping the first stitch of each row, set up your cables using the following formula:
A, B, B, A,
B, A, B, A, B, A,
A, A, B, A.
During the knitting of the cables, increase every 10 rows by stitching the front and back of each stitch before and after slipping the knit stitch in Cables A and B.
(note: do not increase at the slipped stitch closest to the opening of the cardigan, as this area needs to be straight and any flare would cause the sweater to lay wonky on your body and nobody needs that!)
Knit to 8 complete increases.
Bind off.

Placket
Along the edge of the opening, pick up stitches from one extreme edge to the other and knit stockinette through the back loop of each stitch, Purl the next row and then bind off. Do the same for the other side.
Apply snaps, or domes, at key intersections:
- neckline
- neckline meets yoke
- yoke meets body
- in the middle of numbers 2 and 3
- the distance of number 4 twice more below number 3
Knit stockinette through the back loop of each stitch from the stitch holder, Purl the next row and then bind off for the last row. Do the same for the other armhole.
Weave in all your stray yarns. Take a photo and log it on your blog or your Ravelry profile!
This is a work in progress. I am not a knitwear pattern maker. When there are problems, please let me know. I'll do my best to correct this pattern with your help.
Monday, January 05, 2009
Ballerina Dress
She loves Barbie movies. I asked her what she wanted for New Year, she pointed one of Barbies:"I want you make this dress for me." Ok,you name it, I do it! And I know, doesn't matter how does the dress trun out, it will be pretty on my princess!
Friday, November 28, 2008
Angel Dance



This dress is for my daughter's birthday. I used Angel Dance patten from CrochetGarden for the body and skirt sections, except the sleeves.
Of course, she got a lot of compliments from everyone who sees this dress.
Thursday, December 06, 2007
Pink baby set



This set made for a friend.Hat and dress pattern were tested for Lullabiesand lace Anna last year, shoe pattern from AA.
Tuesday, December 04, 2007
Pooh Bear dress

I used worst yarn, no patten. I think I made too many for her, after I cleaned her room, I told myself should stop...My husband wanted me to give them away if the clothes ,dresses were too small for the little one, but I really don't want to... Like mother like daughter, my mom is still keeping a lot stuffs I made for my old daughter.
Monday, December 03, 2007
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